Granular peeling

Cleansers that contain granules are one of the most important elements in skin care routine. Under the general name of “peeling preparations”, these are divided into different types for the facial skin or the body.

The top skin layer consists of several layers of dead cells that shed naturally from the skin. As one gets older, the shedding process slows down and the skin is covered by a thicker coat of dead cells that give it a grayish faded appearance. There are several types of cosmetic preparations used to remove dead cells and reveal a fresh layer, peeling treatment, which help to speed up the shedding. These preparations include preparations that contain alpha hydroxy acids and granule preparations.

Peeling is designed to be used once or twice a week. The granules work on two levels, first by massaging as they rub the cells and remove them, thereafter, in most preparations there is a substance that helps dissolve or soften the natural component in the skin (intercellular adhesive) that binds the cells, and then the natural shedding action is easier.

A granular preparation is called “scrub” in the professional language. The other advantage lies in the massage movements that stimulate the circulation in the skin and release the accumulation of sweat, environmental pollution, makeup residues and oil that create an opaque and lackluster cover on the skin. It is important to remember of cleaning with granules is not to aggressively remove the entire upper stratum corneum (that plays an important role in protecting the skin), this is done through proactive treatment by a dermatologist. But to create a catalyst for the natural process in the cells that are already in the shedding phase, to achieve freshness and prevent the feeling that a thick layer of cells creates like dry, faded and lackluster skin.

Ingredients and texture The materials that make up the grains come from different sources, such as plants or inorganic materials. In the past the practice was to use ground seeds, apricot and peach kernels, crab shells, etc., yet today these materials are rare in the cosmetics industry, and it is recommended not to use them because they have sharp edges that injure the skin. The more popular ingredients come from vegetable sources such as oils and hardened wax, used create round granules that do not scratch or melt when they come in contact with water on the skin, while providing a pleasant and smooth to touch effect.

Another material used is silica, clays, salts and mineral rocks of volcanic origin, ground into powder. The most commonly used materials come from synthetic materials such as polyethylene and nylon materials of different degrees of hardness and grain size. These materials have many advantages, with safe use being the most significant one. Their hardness can be controlled, they are completely round, and therefore do not scratch the skin, are not affected by chemicals and different degrees of acidity, and do not cause any sensitivity or infection.

The cosmetic differences between the different types of grains are mainly in the grain’s shape, size and hardness. The ideal grain size for use on the facial skin ranges from one quarter to half a millimeter, which offers the best massaging sensation and has an effective peeling effect. The amount ranges from 5 to 20 percent of the contents of the preparation. The base that carries the granules can be cream or gel. This is added with substances that promote pleasant spread on the skin, such as oils that have a double effect in the ability to clean the skin.

Most of the preparations also contain gentle detergents that help to foam the preparation on the face, clean, and washed off easily with water, similarly to soap.
Symptoms of damage caused by incorrect use are strong irritation, redness and increased sensitivity to the environment and other care products, caused by damage to the integrity of the stratum corneum. Soothing substances such as aloe vera, chamomile, bisabolol, calendula, panthenol, etc. ease the sensitivity, but do not heal physical damage from strong rubbing. Other care products, such as moisturizers or vitamins for example, are not effective for the skin because such products are quickly washed off the face or body. It is more important to always apply moisturizer after completing the scrubbing action.

The massaging is done with the face free of makeup, and always from the center outwards, not around the eyes, and from the neck upwards, it is important to focus the massage around the lips and the sides of the nose, cleavage area, elbows, knees and feet. Massaging is done for several minutes, using the finger pads, and in small, gentle circular movements, according to the preparation’s indication, on a dry or wet body. Finally, the preparation should be washed well with water or removed with cotton wool and skin toner, preferably those with soothing and astringent substances. The procedure should be completed with a moisturizing cream, and since the skin is clean, the moisture is absorbed quickly and prompts an immediate relaxing sensation. The frequency of use should fit the skin type. Dry and delicate skin – once a week, normal to dry skin – twice a week. Oily skin – three or more times a week.

Warning: It is not recommended for women who suffer from broken capillaries or acne to grain preparations, but rather cleansing masks.